Spain cooks. That’s an understatement.

Stroll through any neighbourhood and as you walk the length of an apartment block you’re sure to catch the whiff of a simmering stockpot brimming to the lid with everything from huge marrow bones or cartoon style fish skeletons to last chance vegetables and a few hardworking peppercorns, each pan sending out aromas so well crafted that even from the street the type of caldo being concocted is satisfyingly detectable.

Head centro urbano along chalkboard menu lined pavements and when you’ve managed to match a restaurant to its menu del dia board, step inside to quite literally feel the speed of the breakneck service of never-ending homemade primeros of affordable paella and secondos of garlicy roast chicken.

Or find a path around the over-spilling clientele of corner bars packed inside like cans of little fish in a crescendo of baritone and where what else but little fish - better known as boquerones - are being prepared and served up 3 ways.

And sometimes occasionally clock the smart and the innovative, places where not just the look but also traditional taste and technique is rearranged by design.